Stewart Island

17th-21st jan

You can't get further down South without reaching the Antartic. A wild, rugged island that has been spared the progress of colonisation, and therefore still has it's bush, birds, and secret coves and beaches, much as it was before the settlers came. Much of the island is inaccessible except by boat or foot and it has a very temperamental wheather that changes from pouring rain to sun to wind and back to rain in a few hours. This keeps the number of tourists down, which I for one deeply appreciate. I met up with Clare (from New Years Eve) and after deciding on a plan and hiring all the necessary equipement we set out by water taxi to Freshwater landing, and from there tramped through the mud to Masons bay. The next day we came back the same way, accompanied by a few others that we had picked up at the lodge. Though Masons bay is supposed to be the best place to see kiwis in the wild, we did not see a single one, much to my disappointment. But the Stewart Island robin kept us entertained on the way - pecking at our shoelaces as if he had found a new kind of big fat worm.

I loved doing that tramp - it's a beautiful feeling to be in the middle of no where, miles from any form of civilization - there are so few places like that left in the world, and certainly people from crowded Europe like me, seldom feel that particular sensation - feeling so small....

While the tramp to Masons bay had been characterised by peaty swamps, flax and Manuka trees (small white flower on pic), my two day tramp to Port William followed the coast through dense bush with wonderfull views on small sandy beaches. Tramping alone was quite a relaxing experience (Clare had left by then). When I got to the lodge I supprised my new roommates by dumping my pack and my clothes as soon as I got there and headed out for a quick dip in a very, very cold sea! That cooled me down pretty quick - Granny, you will be pleased to know that I have jumped into the water at practically every occasion I have had, no matter what the temperature!